This pattern making E-book is for all those who love to sew but don’t know where to start. With this e-book youwilllearn how to take measurement correctly, learn how to make the basic foundation pattern, then move on to making any style in this book or using your own creative fashion knowledge you will go on to making style upon styles for yourself and your family, or this may be the start of a fashion career for you..
I know this E-book will be of great help to you in starting a career in patten making and fashion designing. And with your creative thinking you will be well on your way to becoming a top pattern maker and fashion designer…… Wear something you proudly Sew!!!!
basic guide to pattern making -INDEX
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THIS E-BOOK reveals the secrets of cutting smart patterns that professionals know will produce smart, graceful apparel. The pattern is the design for a garment. It is to the dress designer what the blue print is to the architect. Only well-cut garments have STYLE; and this style is achieved only through clever shaping, careful placing of the grain of the fabric, exaggeration of the silhouette at just the right point. As the pattern is, so the finished gown will be.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
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Basic Pattern, Sloper, Block Used interchangeably to mean a pattern that serves as a basis for other
patterns. It is manipulated and traced, or copied and cut apart, observing
specific rules, without changing the original fit of the pattern.
Master Pattern A pattern developed from a Basic Pattern for a frequently used style. It has
no seam allowances or style details. These patterns save design time.
Styled Pattern A complete pattern for a specific garment with all its style details. Seam
allowances can be added, if desired.
Production Pattern The complete patterns for an entire size range. All details are noted on the
pattern. It has seam allowances.
Hip Level Line A line parallel to the floor on front and back skirt patterns.
Torso Line A line 3–4 inches below the waist, parallel to the Hip Level Line on skirt
front only. It is an indicator to keep the skirt “easy” from waist to hip.
Armscye, Armhole An opening in a bodice into which a sleeve may be inserted.
Scye Line A line on front and back Basic Bodice Patterns. It is squared from the
center lines and touches the base of the Armscye.
Chest Line A line 1winches above the Scye Line on Basic Bodice Patterns. It is the
location for measurements of width across the back and across the chest.
Legs of a Dart The two lines making up a dart.
Style Line of a dart or seam The line nearest the Center Front or Center Back. It is the dominant visual
line in the garment. The second dart leg or seam is the Secondary Line.
Waist Reduction The amount by which a pattern must be made smaller to fit the waistline.
Sweep The width of a skirt at the hem, frequently applied to flared skirts.
Sleeve Cap The part of the sleeve that is inserted into the armhole.
Side Neck Point
Side Waist Point
A Master Pattern is developed from a Basic Pattern for a frequently used style. For example, many skirt
designs start with a skirt pattern that has 12 inches of flare pivoted into front as well as back. It would be
very convenient to have such a pivoted skirt pattern already at hand.
In one sense, a designer can consider all the Basic Patterns as Master Patterns, so they should be kept
nearby as well.
If a designer is working in industry, the employer may specialize in women’s clothing featuring the
Princess Line, so that pattern could be hanging available to speed up the design process.
Some Master Patterns have been developed in various sections of this book so they will be listed below.
All Master Patterns can be used as the basis for more advanced designs. They have no seam allowances
and no added style details. Each Master Pattern has a front and a back pattern except for sleeve patterns
and patterns for details such as collars and pockets.
Each designer’s needs will vary but they may include:
• Grading Slopers
• Master Pattern for a Suit, widened 12 inches
• Two-Piece Suit Sleeve widened to fit the Master Pattern for a Suit
• Master Pattern for a Coat, widened 22 inches
• One-Piece Coat Sleeve, widened to fit the Master Pattern for a Coat
• Master Pattern for Stable Knit Fabrics
• Master Pattern for Stretchy Knit Fabrics
• A 12 inch pivoted skirt
• Princess-line bodice
• Princess-line sheath
• The Basic Dartless Sheath shortened to shirt length with an easy tab front
• Long shirt sleeve with a placket and cuff
• Eased pants pattern
• Pleated pants pattern
• Frequently used collars such as a convertible collar and a mandarin collar
With Garment Construction
Learn pattern drafting by following this step-by-step guide that was student-tested. Most of those
students mastered pattern making. They learned how to construct garments made from the patterns they
drafted and stayed motivated by having new garments for their wardrobes. They learned not to depend on
instructional guide sheets included in purchased patterns.
Note: Basic Patterns and Master Patterns are indicated with Bold Italic letters.
1. Draft the Basic Skirt Pattern, make in muslin, fit and correct pattern as needed.
2. Add from w inch to 2 inches Internal Flare to the Basic Skirt by pivoting at Hip Level Line. Make
the pivoted skirt in plain, firm, woven fabric and fit. Correct both the pivoted pattern and the Basic
Skirt Pattern if needed. Measure for the Basic Bodice at the pivoted skirt fitting.
3. Draft the Basic Bodice Pattern, make in muslin, fit and correct pattern if needed. If no major
changes are needed, measure for the Basic Sleeves.
4. Learn to move darts using sheets of copy paper for the exercises. Do exercises on Basic Bodice copies.
5. Draft Basic Sleeve Patterns, set muslin sleeves in Basic Bodice, fit, correct both Basic Patterns.
6. Coordinate the Basic Patterns—Skirt, Bodice and Sleeves.
7. Design and complete a pattern for a Basic Dress, make in plain, firm, woven fabric; fit and correct
patterns if needed. Transfer any changes back to the Basic Patterns.
8. Create the Basic Sheath Pattern using Basic Skirt and Bodice Patterns. Make muslin, fit, correct
9. Use the Basic Sheath Pattern to design a simple shirt pattern with a cuffed long sleeve. Make in
plain, firm, woven fabric, fit and correct patterns if needed.
10. Create Dartless Basic Sheath Pattern using the Basic Sheath Pattern. Make muslin, fit, correct
11. Use the Basic Dartless Sheath Pattern to design a shirt pattern. Make it up in a checked or plaid
fabric and match the fabric design. Fit the shirt and correct pattern if needed.
12. Create the Basic Pants Pattern using the skirt pattern with 12 inches Internal Flare pivoted at Hip
Level Line. Cut muslin for one leg and sew together, try on the one muslin leg, holding it up with a
grosgrain ribbon for the waistband. Fit and correct pattern if needed.
13. Make pair of pants in plain, firm, woven fabric. Make corrections as needed to the Basic Pants Pattern.
14. Design and develop a pattern for a vest. Use the pattern to make a vest, fit, correct pattern if needed.
15. Design and develop pattern for a suit jacket. Use the pattern to make a jacket, fit, correct pattern.
16. Design and develop pattern for a kimono sleeve garment. Make the garment, fit, correct pattern.
17. Draft the Basic Big Top Pattern.Make in muslin, fit and correct pattern if needed.
18. Design and develop a pattern for a jacket using the Basic Big Top Pattern. Use pattern to make a
19. Design and develop a pattern for a garment made from a stable knit fabric. Use the pattern to make a
garment. Develop the Master Pattern for Stable Knit Fabrics.
20. Design and develop a pattern for a garment made from a stretchy knit fabric. Use pattern to make a
garment. Develop the Master Pattern for Stretchy Knit Fabrics.
Information above was taken from
The Dolman-Front, Kimono-Back Blouse
Another variation in the blouse is the combination of kimono back with dolman front. The back of the blouse and sleeve are cut in one piece, then seamed from low arms circle to shoulder neckline. Novel effects may be obtained with this pattern by cutting back and sleeves one way of material and the front section the opposite way. Color contrasts may also be used to good advantage. After stiff paper pattern is completed, re-cut in tissue paper or muslin. Pink up pattern and place on form over shoulder pad. Readjust fullness, check seam lines and drape in design detail. In this way you train yourself to see design lines in harmony with body lines. You may later work directly on the form with dress material.
The blouse sketched above shows a combination of kimono shoulder and dolman line in front.
Many people said that it is hard to stay with the trend during season. But, what they don’t know is that there are various ways on how to stay on the top of the new season trends. The only thing that you should take note when assessing your wardrobe for winter season is that the season revolves around achieving balance between the trend-based accessories and versatile classics items. If you are ready to stay in the latest fashion trend this winter season, consider these following tips:
Match the Prints
Statement prints are popular nowadays and have been around for quite some time. Considering these items for winter is recommended. It is because through the clothing with prints, you will never be out of fashion even if it is winter. So, be brave and start matching the prints today!
Work That Waist
If you want to look like a ladylike this winter, there is no need to worry about it as you can do it by working your waist. You have to keep in mind that a cinched waist is the best way to stay in your ladylike fashion statement. You can use high-waisted pants or skirts. You can pick any clothes you like, but make sure that it perfectly matched on your pants or skirts.
Go for Tall Boots
If you want to stay warm this winter season, consider wearing for a pair of boots that is made from materials that will provide you comfort. The best thing about tall boots is that you can wear anything while keeping your feet warm. You don’t need to match your outfit as tall boots suit perfectly on various kinds of clothing.
Find the Right Scarf
One of the best and most favorite accessories during winter is a scarf. If you want to be on your fashion statement while keeping your body warm, you must seek for the right scarf.
Try to Keep Your Legs Warm with Leggings or Stockings
Winter is the coldest season of the year. If you want to keep your legs warm without sacrificing your fashion statement, using leggings or stockings can be a perfect addition to anyone’s outfit. These items will give you warmth and they are also comfortable. In addition to that, you can pick any clothing you want with leggings or stockings.
Bring on the Bling
Even though it is winter, this does not mean that you will forget about your bling. You can still wear your preferred bling. You may consider wearing necklaces, earrings, cocktail rings, and so on.
Some of you may not be considering leather because it does not provide a sense of fashion. But, today, leathers are the hottest clothing that you should not miss to have.
There is no need to worry about your fashion statement even if it is winter. With the mentioned winter fashion tips above, you will surely enjoy the winter season while staying on trend. So, what are you waiting for? Choose your preferred winter style today and make your own fashion statement!
During winter season, it is wise to search for winter shoes and boots that will provide you comfort and warmth. At present, there are numerous stores that are offering a wide variety of shoes and boots for winter season. You can choose any store you want. But, make sure to keep in mind vital factors when shopping around for winter shoes and boots as this may matter in order for you to get the right and the best pair of winter boots and shoes.
Below are some of the things that you need to consider when shopping around for winter shoes and boots:
Comfort is a very important consideration most particularly if you will wear winter boots or shoes for extended periods. A good pair of shoes and boots must support the arch and foot in order for you to have a great walking posture. The lacing systems and boot insole are the ones that are responsible for providing comfort to wearers. A nice insole has an arch and padding support. Lacing systems, on the other hand, have to do with providing wearers a good fit. These provide the perfect possible fit.
Cost may not be an important factor for some consumers. However, if you want to experience a huge savings when seeking for your preferred shoes and boots for winter, then it is wise to consider cost. Your budget can also a great help especially if it is your first time to shop around. It is because this can limit you when you are shopping in the market. By thinking about the cost, you can easily select a right pair of shoes or boots.
Nowadays, there are a lot of brands of winter shoes and boots. But, you have to take note that only few brands can provide you what you need. That is the reason why you need to consider brand when shopping around for your desired shoes or boots for winter. Pick the brand that is known for its quality yet affordable products. This will lead you to the right pair of winter shoes or boots that will meet all your needs.
Style is one of the most important things that you need to prioritize. The reason behind it is that your preferred boots or shoes for winter must also have features that will give you protection from the different elements. Although it depends on one’s taste for shoes or boots, always seek for those that will provide you warmth and comfort because this is what the best boots or shoes do.
There are other things that you need to consider when shopping around for winter shoes and boots. With these considerations, you will be able to find the right one that will perfectly match on your needs or preferences. So, when deciding to purchase the best winter shoes and boots, always keep in mind the things that you need for consideration as they can offer you advantages in the end and will help you save an ample amount of money.
Making a Full Bodice Pattern with Sleeve is a critical task since it involves making too many parts that needs to be done for the entire parts of the bodice. It usually starts in making the sketches based on the measurements. The pattern usually starts in sketching the bodice until one by one the layers and every part is already sketched and made with a pattern. Once the bodice is already sketched and made with a pattern, the next thing that will be done is sketching the sleeve part of the bodice. The measurements must be properly followed and make sure that the pattern will also have an allowance.
Bodice pattern is the design that is needed in making and providing average proportion including respectable cleavage for women. There are a few considerations in making a bodice pattern. The most essential part is making a pattern that will not make the person wearing it a hard time breathing and in moving around. To make the exact proportion of the bodice pattern, measurements must be provided. Basically, making this pattern will start in drawing a rectangle based on the measurements that will be provided and connecting points until a pattern is made. Bodice Pattern is the key in making t-shirts, blouses, and other types of related clothing.
Custom pattern drafting is a process of creating design templates, in which craft items and clothing are sewn. The patterns are usually made of pieces of paper that are being trace on the fabric and then cut. Each drafted pattern will serve as the individual part for the item or garment that will be made and sewn. Custom pattern drafting is made with the details given as the basis of the pattern that will be made.
This can be either made through replicating the garment that is already owned and making adjustments that needs and preferred to be adjusted. Through tracing the old garment, a new and customized drafted pattern will be made for new garment.