Drafting Over Blouse
HOW TO DRAFT PATTERN (Style 1)
1) Using the revised “hip length dress foundation” as a Guide, trace front and back; then for closer-fit (about 5” above waistline), make dart 1/2″ wider (1/4” on each side of dart), and extend point of dart up to breast point. Draft lower neckline as shown; then for button closing in front, add 3/4″ to center front 2) Draft length of blouse, to 4” below waistline. For semi-fitted blouse, reduce width of back waist dart, 1/2″ at waistline, and add 1/2″ at side seams. 3) Separate front panel from front; then mark 2 small pleats in place of the single dart, below breast point. Draft the dropped shoulder outline on front and back. 4) Draft front and neck facing as indicated. (front facing maybe made in one with front). Add 1-1/2 wide hem to arm opening as indicated. Add 1” hem To lower edge of blouse To complete the pattern, allow seams
HOW TO DRAFT PATTERN (Style 2)
1) Using the dress bodice foundation as a guide, reduce ½” at top of side seams, and raise armhole 3/4″. 2) Draft midriff as follows: width of midriff at center front and at waist dart, equals 1/3 of center front length; width of midriff at side seam is 1” less than at center front. For overlap closing, add 3” to center front of midriff; then draw rolling line, from midriff to shoulder seam at neckline as indicated. For reveres, draw line from shoulder to bottom outer edge of front; then trace reveres to make reveres and front in one section as shown in diagram 3. 3) For closer-fit midriff (just below bust), make dart 1/2″ wider (1/4” on each side of the dart) at top of midriff,; then separate midriff from front, and close up dart (between B-C) as shown in diagram 4. 4) Draft facing, 4” wide for reveres and front as shown; then trace facing to make facing and front in one section. Make short lines for the pleat in place of the bust dart.