Drafting Chemise Dress
DRAFT OF CHEMISE DRESS PATTERN 1) Using the hip-length foundation, trace front and darts as indicated; then for front closing, add 3/4” to center front as shown. 2) Draft front facing as indicated; then trace facing and front in one. Trace back hip-length dress foundation and waistline dart. Instead of the 1/4″ ease on the back shoulder seam, make dart 1/2″ wide and 3” long at center of shoulder seam; then add 1/4″ to shoulder at armhole. Draft back neck facing, 1-1/2” wide. 3) Add 1/2″ to side seam of front and back at waistline; then for slight-fitted waistline, reduce waist darts 3/4″ in width at waistline, and 2” in length, For loose-fitting chemise at waistline, eliminate the waist darts entirely. Draft the dress the required length. Width at lower edge of front equals the front at hipline, plus 1”.
The same applies to the back. 4) Using the dress sleeve foundation, trace sleeve 3” long at underarm seam; then draft sleeve facing 1-1/2” wide for lower edge of sleeve. (For greater arm ease – when raising the arm – lengthen top of underarm seams of sleeve according to directions given for Trapeze dress sleeve, diagram 3).DRAFT OF CHEMISE SLIP PATTERN 1) Using the hip-length dress foundation, trace front and the darts as shown; then reduce 1/2″ at top of side seam. 2) Draft upper edges of slip by drawing diagonal lines as indicated; then for slash-gathered seam line, draw diagonal line from center front to waist dart. Draft shoulder strap 1/2″ wide as shown. 3 and 4) For gathers, draw slash line from diagonal seam line to point of side dart. Mark sections A-B; then slash and spread, closing up the side dart as shown in diagram 4. For shoulder strap position, draw line from center of shoulder to breast point. 5) Trace back hip-length dress foundation, and reduce 1/2″ at top of side seam to nothing at waistline draft upper edge of slip as shown; then, for shoulder strap position, draw line from center of shoulder to the waist dart. Draft shoulder strap 1/2″ wide; then continue front and back strap in one. Draft slip the required length. Width at lower edge of front equals the front width at hipline, plus 1”. The same applies to the back. For chemise wear, eliminate the waist darts.