Drafting Jacket with Notch Collar
jacket single breasted, with shoulder or neck dart fitting. waist darts from fitted waistline. jacket has a seam at center back and darts at back neck edge. the collar has a 1-1/4” stand at center back, and 1” stand at shoulder seam. 1) using the jacket foundation, mark position for shoulder dart; then continue to draw a straight line at center front, 2) for shoulder dart, swing upper part of front to within 1/2″ of dotted line by pivoting at breast point. 3) for single breasted jacket, add 3/4″ to center front, bringing line to 4” above waistline. from that point, draw the rolling line, stopping 1” away from neck at shoulder seam.4) Fold on rolling line; then trace neck and center front, as shown by dotted line. A to B – 1/4″. [For heavier material as cheviot, etc. mark point B 3/8” from A] This gives the outer edge of the collar the necessary ease over the shoulder. D—- Mark point D in center between A and C. 5) B to E – 3”. This equals back of neck. Draw a straight line from D to E through B. E to F – 1-1/4”. This equals the stand of collar at back of neck. Square a line across at E. F to G – 3”. This line is twice the collar stand plus 1/2″. G to H – Square a line down to shoulder seam. C to I – 1/2″, mark point 1, 1/2″ below C on center front line. D to J – Draw a straight line from D to J. 1/2″ past 1. J to K – 1-3/4”, making point K about 3” below H. J to L – 2-1/2”, draw this line about 1/4″ below K. L to M – Draw a slightly curved line. F to N – Connect for rolling line 6) Trace reverse to complete the front.7 & 8 For facing, trace front, making it 1” wide at shoulder and 4” wide at lower edge Lengthen facing 1-1/2” to correspond with the front, as shown in diagram 11. Make upper collar 1/8” wider than under collar. 9 & 10) For neck dart, mark a line from neck [1/2” from rolling line] to breast point. Close shoulder dart to form neck dart; then draw V-shaped dart about 4” long. Draw 2 waist darts 6” long 3” above and 3” below the waistline. Make each dart 1/2″ wide at waistline. 11) Complete draft by tracing back foundation to the front with side seams even; shift side seam toward back 2” and reduce 1” each side of line at waist. Draw new center back line, reducing 1/2″ at waist Draw new center back line, reducing 1/2″ at waist, and adding 1/4″ at neck. Make a neck dart 3” long and 1-1/2” from center front.