HOW TO DRAFT THE PATTERN

1 – Dress Bodice

Using the dress bodice foundation as shown in the supplementary revised edition of junior’s misses and women sizes, trace front for left and right side as indicated.

2 and 3 – Midriff

Width of midriff at center front equals 1/3” of center front length –

At dart, 1/4″ less than at center front At side, 1” less than at center front At center back, 1/4″ less than at side

4, 5 and 6) For closer fit midriff (just below bust). Make dart 1/2″ wider (1/4” on each side of dart) at upper edge of midriff; then extend point of dart 2” up as shown by dotted lines.

Draft lower neckline as shown in diagrams 4 and 6.) Separate the midriff sections on front and back; then eliminate the darts on midriff between E and B, B and C and G and H (diagrams 5 and 6), and on front bodice between D and A (diagram 5).

7) For pleats in bodice front, draw 3 slash lines as shown by dotted lines; then, to eliminate the waist dart, slash along dotted lines and spread, closing up the dart as shown in diagram 8. Make sure that the pleat spreads are equally spaced.

Draw the pleat stitching lines to center front only as shown in diagram 10.

When stitched, soft pleats will automatically form beyond center front.

8 and 9) Dropped shoulder – Draft the dropped shoulder outlines as shown in diagrams 8 and 9.

10 and 11) Skirt length – Draft skirt length according to the prevailing style length, measuring from waistline to hem of skirt.

Skirt width – Equals about four times the width of lower edge of midriff.

To complete the pattern, add seams and a skirt hem; then make corresponding notches.