Drafts of Hood and Cape

HOW TO DRAFT THE HOOD PATTERN

Sketch shows how to take “Head Height” measurement. Other views shows hood faced with contrast lining. Hood has a 2” turn back at top of front, and a pleat at each side of neck edge. Use the back foundation, size 16, to draft the hood. 1) A to B – Equals 2”. Extend center back line up, 2”.

B to C – Equals 3” (Back of neck). C to D – Draw line from point C to D at armhole. C to E – Equals 4” (Front of neck). Square a line up from line C-D; then connect E to D. B to F – Equals 14” (Head Height, plus 4”). F to G – 8” (Across Back Measurement, plus 1”). G to D – Connect. 2) F to H – Equals 2” (allowance for the back of head).

G to I – Equals 2” (extension for turn back). D to J – Equals 1”. Then connect from E to J to I. H to B – Connect. 3) For pleat at shoulder, draw slash line from C to I.

Then mark point K in center of line C-I, and point L in center of line E-I. Slash from C to I and from K to L; then spread 2” at C for the pleat, as shown in diagram 4. If preferred, a dart or gathers may be used instead of the pleat. 4) Add seams and mark pleat lines 2” long.

HOW TO DRAFT THE CAPE PATTERN

Illustration shows cape with shoulder dart fitting and with minimum sweep at lower edge (60” sweep, and 42” length for size 16).

Use the dress foundation as a guide to draft the cape. 1) Trace front and back about 12” apart; then make shoulder dart.

A to B – Square a line across from center back to armhole. B to C – Equals 1/4″ of line A-B. (Allowance for ease over the arm). D to E – Equals line B to C. 2) F to G – 42”. (length of Cape).

Extend center back line down to G. G to H – Equals 15” (1/4 of 60” sweep). Square this line across at G. H to C – Connect; then draw a curved line from shoulder to point C.

H to I – Equals 1/2″ of line H-G. Square line to point I from line C-H. J to K – Equals H to G; then locate point L and complete draft of front. 1.Add seams and make  corresponding notches. Make shoulder dart 2” shorter.