Materials 1) Sketch the shade to use as a guide for ring locations,  step 7. Cut shade fabric; seam for width, if necessary. If fabric ravels, finish side edges with zigzag stitch or liquid fray preventer. 2) Place shade fabric wrong side up on work surface. Mark finished width. Press I l/2″ (3.8 cm) side hems. 3) Place lining on shade fabric, wrong sides together. Slip lining under side hems. Smooth and press lining. Pin in place; slipstitch, if desired. 4) Center and pin facing strip on right side of shade, even with lower edge, with I” (2.5 em) extending at each side. Stitch l/2″ (1.3 cm) from lower edge. Press toward wrong side of shade. 5) Fold and press facing extensions to back of shade so they do not show on the right side. Fuse or stitch in place.

 

 

 

6) Tum under raw edge of facing I l/2″ (3.8 cm);turn under again 3″ (7.5 cm). Stitch along folded edge. Stitch again, I” (2.5 cm) from first stitching to form pocket for weight rod. 7) Mark locations for rings with horizontal and vertical rows of X’s. First, mark outside vertical rows I” (2.5 cm) from shade edges so rings hold side hems in place. Space vertical rows 8″ to 12″ (20.5 to 30.5 cm) apart across shade. Position bottom row just above the rod pocket. Space horizontal rows 5″ to 8″ (12.5 to 20.5 cm) apart. (8) Pin through both layers of fabric at center of ring markings, with pins parallel to bottom of shade. Fold shade in accordion pleats at pins to position shadefor machine or hand stitching of rings. If using ring tape, omit steps 9a and 9b. 9c) Use ring tape instead of rings, if desired. Turn under W’ (1.3 cm) at bottom of tape and place at top of rod pocket. Pin tape to shade in vertical rows,lining up rings horizontally. Stitch both long edges and bottom of tape with zipper foot, stitching all tapes in same direction. 10) Staple or tack shade to top of mounting board. If shade is mounted outside of window frame, paint or wrap the board with lining fabric before attaching shade. This gives the shade a finished look. 13) Cut lengths of cord, one for each row of rings. Each cord will be a different length; cords go up the shade, across the top and partway down one side. String cord through rings and screw eyes, with excess cord at one side for pulling. 14) File ends of weight rod or cover ends with tape. Insert rod into rod pocket and slipstitch ends closed. A galvanized or iron rod, painted to resist rusting, can be used instead of a brass rod.

9a) Attach rings by placing fold (pin in center) under presser foot with ring next to fold. Set stitch length at 0, and zigzag at widest setting. Secure ring with 8 to 10 stitches, catching small amount of fold in each stitch. Lock stitches by adjusting needle to penetrate fabric in one place (width setting at 0) for 2 or 3 stitches. 9b) Tack rings by hand if zigzag stitch is not available. Use double thread. Secure with 4 or 5 stitches in one place, through both fabric layers. Reinforce all rings in bottom row with extra stitches; they hold the weight of the fabric. 11) Insert screw eyes on mounting board to line up with vertical rows; place one screw eye above each row. On heavy or wide shades, use pulleys instead of screw eyes. 12) Tie a nonslip knot in bottom ring. Apply white glue to knot and ends of cord to prevent knot from slipping. Thread cord through the vertical row of rings. 15) Mount shade (page 47). Adjust cords with shade lowered so the tension on each cord is equal. Tie cords in a knot just below screw eye. Braid cords and secure at bottom with a knot or drapery pull. 16) Center awning cleat on edge of window frame or on wall. Wind cord around cleat to secure shade position when the shade is raised. {Credit} Singer sewing for the Home (copyright 1984-1988)