STYLE1 [Lantern Design]

The lower sleeve is so cut that the arm opening is on the straight grain, thus keeping the opening from stretching

 

1) Trace the sleeve foundation; then draft sleeve 6” long at underarm seam.

Divide sleeve in 2 parts, making upper sleeve 1” long at underarm seam.

Draft lower sleeve 1/2 narrower each side of the underarm seam at lower edge. 2 & 3)

Divide upper sleeve into 8 equally spaced parts and mark sections A to H; then divide lower sleeve into 8 parts.

Mark sections I to P. Separate lower sleeve section from the upper section; then make slashes from top to lower edge, and spread as illustrated, leaving seam allowance space at sleeve opening between sections I and P.

Make slashes in upper sleeve from lower edge up and spread as illustrated, making the space between A and B equal the space between I and J, etc. Allow seams and make corresponding notches; then cut out sleeve in fabric.

Cut a facing, 1” longer than opening, and 2-1/2” wide: then sew to lower sleeve, right sides together, tapering seam, as illustrated. Slash through center for opening; then turn facing to inside again, and slipstitch inner edge to position. 6)

For closer fit around arm, sew a loop and button at lower underarm seam.

 

STYLE 2 His sleeve is about 3/4 length and may be worn pushed up toward the elbow. The method of making pattern for lower sleeve is similar to style 1.

1) Take out elbow dart in sleeve foundation by making tuck in back of sleeve to nothing in front as illustrated. Trace.

2) Draft sleeve 3-1/2” shorter; then divide sleeve in 2 sections making lower sleeve 4” long. Broaden sleeve slightly below elbow.

3) Divide upper sleeve into 6 equally spaced parts and mark sections A to F; t hen divide lower sleeve as illustrated, and mark sections G to L

4) Separate lower sleeve from the upper section; then make slashes from top to bottom and spread as indicated; leaving seam allowance space at sleeve opening between sections G and L. [the space between sections I and J is automatic].

Make slashes in upper sleeve from lower edge to the top and spread as illustrated making the space between A and B equal the space of the lower sleeve between G and H. etc.

5) Allow seams and make corresponding notches. Make a facing, 1” longer than sleeve opening and 1-1/2” wide. To make sleeve in fabric, use directions given above for style 1.