KIMONO SLEEVE STYLE

FEATURING – The 2-piece sleeve combined with front and back, and having the sleeve on the bias.

A GUSSET is a diamond-shaped wedge [cut in 1 or 2 sections] to be inserted at the armpit of the underarm seam, for the purpose of permitting the arm to rise more freely and comfortably.

THE 2-PIECE GUSSET is much easier to apply to front and back before joining the underarm seams.

THE FRENCH SIDE DART is a slanting dart, often used for the Kimono sleeve with Gusset, because it helps to keep the dart sufficiently away from the seams of the Gusset.

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The drafts shown on this page were developed by using the Junior Petite [Size 7], and teens [Size 12] dress front, back and sleeve Foundation.

HOW TO DRAFT PATTERN

1 and 2 – French side dart

Draw a slanting slash line point of side dart to 3-1/2” above waistline at side seam, and mark sections A and B; then slash and spread, closing up the regular side dart as shown in diagram 2.

3 – 2-piece short sleeve

Using the dress sleeve foundation, draft the short sleeve by drawing a line across as indicated; then divide sleeve in half and draw seam line, 1/2″ toward the front. To eliminate the ease in sleeve cap, reduce 1” at top of cap by drawing

V-shaped lines, 1” wide at top to nothing, 3” below.

4 – 2-piece Kimono Sleeve

Trace front and back of dress bodice; then place sleeve sections with top of cap even at shoulder seam, and having the sleeve sections overlap evenly at underarm seams.

5 – Underarm Gusset

FOR GUSSET, draw diagonal guide
lines from underarm corner to shoulder seam, 2” from neckline; then draw slash lines for gusset, 3-1/2” long as indicated.

FOR 2-PIECE GUSSET, draft sections for front and back as shown, having the shorter edges correspond with the slash lines on front and back, and having the long edges slightly curved.

FOR 1-PIECE GUSSET, draft diamond-shaped section as illustrated.
To complete the pattern, add seams and make corresponding notches.