Drafting Coat with Collar
2 styles coat with deep notch collar
Illustrations show that coat with a wider collar than the regular notch collar. the collar has a 1-1/2” stand at center back; 1” stand at shoulder.
1) back of collar a to b – 3” b to c – 3-1/2” d to e – 1-1/2” c to e – connect. b to f – equals c to e plus 1/4″ e to f – draw a curved line.
2) front rolling line form shoulder dart; then draft double-breasted front, and draw rolling line,
3) fold on rolling line and trace neck and center front.
4) apply back of collar to front,
5) draft front part of collar and reveres, using the same method as for the notch collar.
6) trace reveres to complete the front.coat with regular notch collar and high revers
Illustration shows coat with notch collar, having 1-1/2” stand at shoulder. this collar is similar to the jacket notch collar, the difference being in the ease allowance when drafting the back of the collar since coat materials are usually very heavy, there is an ease allowance of 1/2″, compared to the 1/4″ or 3/8” ease allowance for the jacket notch collar.
1 and 2) using the coat foundation, first make shoulder dart in front, as illustrated.
3 and 4) make front wider, draw rolling line, and trace neck and center front.
5) draft notch collar and reveres, using the same method given for the regular notch collar draft, but according to the measurement given in this diagram. note the 3/4″ allowance for ease at shoulder. back of collar is 3-1/2” wide, or 1-1/2” for the stand and 2” for the outer part. 6) trace reveres as illustrated, to complete the front.
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