jacket single breasted, with shoulder or neck dart fitting. waist darts from fitted waistline. jacket has a seam at center back and darts at back neck edge. the collar has a 1-1/4” stand at center back, and 1” stand at shoulder seam. 1) using the jacket foundation, mark position for shoulder dart; then continue to draw a straight line at center front, 2) for shoulder dart, swing upper part of front to within 1/2" of dotted line by pivoting at breast point. 3) for single breasted jacket, add 3/4" to center front, bringing line . . .