Grading (16 to 18) style 1 chart shows where and how much jacket pattern is graded from size 16 to 18. the entire increase of the underarm grade is given at the side of the front because the underarm seam had been shifted toward the back about 2”. the grade of the 2-piece sleeve is divided equally between the upper and under sleeve, with the usual cap grade in the upper sleeve. the collar takes the neck grade of the front and back.

style 2 chart shows peplum jacket graded from 16 to 18. peplum does not grade in length, but when grading in width, pattern must be shifted in the direction of the shape of he pieces as indicated with arrows. the same applies to the lower sleeve section. the upper sleeve takes the entire sleeve length grade.

style 3 chart shows coat pattern graded from 16 to 18. when grading the circular part of the front and back, pattern must be shifted in the direction as indicated on the chart with arrows. the horizontal and vertical grade must correspond with the upper side sections. the cuff grade must correspond with the grade of the lower part of sleeve. note: many manufacturers grade the front and back only 3/8” instead of 1/2”, from center front or back to the side seam. however, for closer fitting garments, the 1/2” grade is preferred.