How to Grade Women’s Sizes 36 -38
The grade from 36 to 38 is very much the same as the grade from 16 to 18, the difference being an extra grade in the front over the bust, from shoulder bust, from shoulder seam to waistline. this grade is required for the ladies sizes only. whether the front has a side dart, shoulder dart or waist dart fitting, the extra grade of 1/8” should be given as shown in these diagrams. the ladies sizes represent the mature figures, and therefore the front pattern requires the extra grade (1/8”) in the dart for each size. the underarm length of the waist and sleeve remains the same for all ladies sizes. the grade in the armhole and in the sleeve cap is somewhat greater than in the misses sizes. the grade from 38 to 40 from 40 to 42, etc. is the same as from 36 to 38.grade of patern with side dart in front chart shows where and how much pattern is increased from 36 to 38. the extra grade of 1/8” over the bust increases the size of the side dart. this also provides the necessary grade of 3/8” from shoulder to waistline, there being 1/16” at the shoulder (when the neck is raised 1/16”), 3/16” at the armhole, and 1/8” at the bust line. the sleeve grade at the wrist is half of the bicep grade. for instance: the grade at bicep is 1/2”; at the wrist 1/4”. this principle also applies to the grade of sleeve in the misses sizes.
grade of shoulder dart, waist dart, etc. chart shows method of grading front pattern with shoulder dart or waist dart fitting, making the increase of 3/8” from shoulder to waistline, and increasing the size of the dart 1/8” for each size. chart also shows where and how much the two piece back is increased from 36 to 38.
grade of 4-piece pattern with 2-piece sleeve apply the same method in grading the 2-piece front as in grading the shoulder dart front. the grade of the 2-piece back is similar to the grade of the back sections in the above chart. the entire 1/8” shoulder grade is applied to the side section of front and back. the increase of the 2-piece sleeve is the same as one-piece sleeve shown in the chart.
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