Drafting Shawl Collar
Blouse with Shawl Collar & Peplum
Blouse features dropped shoulders and close fitting waistline with waist darts in front and back. Front and collar are in one section. 1)
Use the dropped shoulder foundation and separate the hip sections of front and back.
2) Close up front dart, spreading waist dart as indicated; then add 3/4″ to center front for front closing overlap. Mark positions for but holes as shown below on front.
3) For peplum, make the hip sections 5” long; then divide each section into 3 equal parts and mark them A to F.
4) For circular peplum, slash the hip sections from lower edge up, and place them against the square as indicated. Draw circular line at bottom. 5) Add 1” hem at center front and lower circular edge.
HOW TO DRAFT SHAWL COLLAR AND FRONT IN ONE
1) A to B – Equals back of neck [3” for size 16] Square this lineup from shoulder line
2) B to C – 1/4″; then connect C to A
3) C to D – 2-3/4”, this equals 1-1/4” for stand of collar at center back plus 1-1/2” for turn back. Square this line at point C.
4) To complete the collar and front in one, draw a squared line from point D, about 3” long and then continue the line slightly curved to edge of front. 5 and 6) Draft facing for front and collar as indicated, making the facing 1/8” wider at collar and lapel, and 1/8” longer at center back as shown by dotted lines. Add seams on all sewing edges to complete the blouse pattern.
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