This blouse features an inverted pleat in back with slightly broader shoulder.

 

Striped materials with yokes pocket and sleeve crosswise. Blouse is hip-length (6” below waistline), and is worn tucked into the skirt. The darts in front and back are joined below waistline only.

To draft blouse, use front, back, and sleeve of dress foundation as a guide.

 

1) Make shoulders 1/4″ broader, Draw yoke lines in front and back by squaring across chest line in front, 2” below neck, and squaring across from center back, 4” below neck. Draw slash line for gathers in front, from center of yoke to breast point; then mark sections A to F.

Draw lower blouse line, 5” below waistline.
Sleeve is 3” long at underarm seam and 1” narrower at bottom. Draw straight line across.
2) Separate yoke from front and back; then close 1/4″ dart in back yoke between D and E.
Slash front on line between B and C from yoke to breast point, and spread for gathers by closing up front dart.
For front closing overlap, add 3/4″ to center front; then mark position for buttons and buttonholes, 3” apart, beginning the first at center of yoke.

Mark position for corresponding notches at yoke seams, sleeve and armhole.
For shoulder pads – Place yoke sections, shoulder to shoulder; then draft shoulder pad as 3) Mark position for a 4” x 4” pocket, 2” from center front and 2” below yoke; then trace. Allow seams on all sections; then add hems and a pleat as illustrated.
Cutting.