How to Draft Coats
Coats with Flared Back 2 styles [how to draft coat, sleeve and collar – part 2] how to draft collar 1 and 2) a to b – 1/2″. draw lower neck at center front. b to c – this equals neck measure to center back [about 8” for size 16]. draw straight line, b to c. 3 & 4) c to d 1-3/4”. this equals stand at back of collar; then connect d to e. [d to e equals c to e]. d to f – equals twice the stand plus 1/2″. [total 4”]. square this line from line d – e. 5 and 6) f to g – square down from line d – f to shoulder. b to h – 5”; then connect from g to h, drawing slightly curved lines at neck and outer edge. make upper collar 1/8” wider as shown. add seams.how to draft sleeve 1 and 2 using the coat sleeve foundation, take out the elbow dart by making a tuck in the back, to nothing in front as shown in diagram 2. deepen sleeve cap at sides [1/2”]. this corresponding with the deepen armhole of the coat. 3 & 4) make sleeve 3/4″ wider at each side as indicated. this corresponds with the coat increase at side of armhole. draw sides of sleeve slightly curved. make sleeve 1/4″ wider at each side of cap. draft cuff 3-1/2” wide to fit lower sleeve. divide sleeve into 2 parts, from shoulder notch to bottom; then draw slash line across cap; 3” from top. separate the 2 sleeve sections; then slash from center to sides and spread 1/2″, this provides extra room for shoulder pad. 5 and 6) make cuff and facing in one section; then add 1” hem at bottom. add seam.draft of coat [style 2] this coat features the 2-piece back with the flares concentrating near center back, below yoke. the bias grain of goods at center back will permit the folds of the flares to fall more softly. 1 and 2) trace coat back foundation; then deepen armhole and add to side seam same as for style 1. draft yoke as indicated. 3 and 4_ for flare allowance, draw slash lines, 2-1/2” apart; then slash and spread as shown in diagram 4. draft back the required length, adding 1” at center back hip, and adding hem at bottom. add seams on all edges except at center back of yoke.









Comments are closed.