2 styles shawl collar with darts in back

illustration shows collar with a 3” stand in back. the darts in back cause the collar to stand away from the neck. this is necessary because of the high stand.

1 and 2) using the coat foundation, draft the shoulder dart in front, as illustrated

3 and 4) make front wider below waistline and draw rolling line; then trace neck and center front.

5) back of collar a to b – 6” b to c – 3-1/2” c to d – connect. b to f – equals c to d plus 1/4″ d to f – draw a curved line.

6 and 7) apply back of collar to front draft front part of collar and reveres, using the same method as shown for the jacket shawl collar

8 and 9) trace reveres to complete the front. mark the position for the darts,

10)spread collar sections; then draw v-shaped lines for darts.

 

Shawl collar with separate collar stand

illustration shows coat  with neck dart in front, and collar with a separate stand. this collar is cut in two parts to allow the outer  part to be cut in fur and the stand in material. this is to prevent skin irritation sometimes caused by fur rubbing against the neck.

11 and 12) these diagrams show how to draft the neck dart.

13 and 14) for separate collar stand,  then close the darts and trace stand in one piece.