Décolleté Garments
Brassiéres and Bathing Suits The bodice sloper may be used as the basis for making patterns for sleeveless garments, swim-suits, brassiéres, decollete gowns, et cetera. As such types of garments require extra close fitting around the breast area, a dart is introduced at that point as shown in the accompanying illustration. This method is used in less expensive garments or in bathing suits, lingerie slips, etc. To make the garment more shapely, the waistline dart may be curved slightly to closely conform to the diaphragm. Designers of bathing suits, evening dresses and other similar types of apparel usually use a special model form for that purpose. The breast development of the figure is closely molded in the normal dress form. These special forms represent the uncorseted figure and patterns made over such a model form are more figure revealing. The first sketch shows simple bodice top which might be used for an evening gown. In order to eliminate the secondary dart it is pinched in down to the bust point and then shifted over into the basic dart at the waistline as shown in the diagram. This shapes the upper edge of the bodice into a closer fit when the enlarged waistline dart has been sewed up. This too, could be corrected to conform to the diaphragm and produce a more literal fit to the figure. The second has two secondary darts, one to maintain close fit near the arm, and the other to cup the fabric at the center front to establish the separation between the breasts at the center front. The basic waistline dart is also intensified to insure a closer fit at the lower edge. When you experiment with these problems, it is advisable that you either pad the normal dress form or use one which has a more pronounced bust to demonstrate this method more clearly. The draped top to the evening gown would probably be attached to the closely fitted foundation top. Make the foundation first and then trace off the portion of the pattern which will be draped. Pin in the darts and slash the shift control into gathers and add more fullness as desired.






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