Deep Aarmhole Sleeves

style 2 STYLES [WING SLEEVE DESIGNS] STYLE 1

This style features a 3-1/2” deeper armhole sleeve. Front has diagonal side dart.

1) Draft deeper armhole and wider shoulder as indicated.

Draft side dart line; then mark sections A to C. Close up front and waist darts, spreading side dart as shown in diagram 2.

2) Cut out front and back along the new armhole lines; then trace as illustrated. Place sleeve with cap almost touching armhole at shoulder and balancing sleeve evenly at each side. Trace. Draw front part of sleeve cap, 1/2″ away from armhole, and widen top of sleeve from armhole to elbow as indicated.

3 and 4) Trace outline of sleeve along new cap line; then divide top of cap into 8 equal parts. To lengthen underarm seam at top, first draw curved slash lines about 2” deep at each side; then divide in half and mark sections D to H. Slash as illustrated and spread, raising sections D and G, 3-1/2”; then draw underarm seam lines as indicated.

5 Allow seams and mark corresponding notches. The deep armhole sleeve must be so constructed that it should allow the wearer to raise her arm quite comfortably.

To accomplish this, the sleeve pattern must be provided with extra length at the top of the underarm seam as demonstrated in diagram 3 and 4. For example 3-1/2” deeper armhole, the sleeve underarm seam should be lengthened 3-1/2” at the top. For an armhole 2” deeper, add 2” to the top of the sleeve underarm seam, etc. In other words as much as the armhole is deepened so much must be added to the length of the underarm sleeve at top.

STYLE 2 This style features square armhole sleeve, 3/4 length, and 3” deeper armhole.

1) Draft square armhole 3” deep, and 1/2″ wider shoulder Close up front dart and spread waist dart as shown in diagram 2.

2) Cut out front and back along new armhole lines; then trace front, back and sleeve as described in style 1, diagram 2

3 and 4) Trace outline of sleeve along new, cap line and divide top of cap into 8 equal parts. To lengthen underarm seam 3” at top, first draw slash lines; then slash and spread as indicated. For ¾ sleeve, draft sleeve 5” shorter; then wider sleeve slightly at lower edge. Add 1” hem at lower edge. 5) Allow seams and make corresponding notches.