Drafting Double Breasted Jacket
Sketches show the front and side view of the jacket front and shoulder dart and waist dart fitting. back has a seam at center back and is in 4 sections. jacket has the regular notch collar use the jacket foundation to draft this pattern 1) mark position for shoulder dart; then continue to draw a straight line to the top at center front.
2) for shoulder dart, swing upper part of front to within 1/2″ of dotted line.
3) for double breasted front, add 3” to center front, bringing line 1” above the waistline. from that point, draw the rolling line, as shown by dotted line, stopping 1” away from neck at shoulder.4) Fold paper on rolling line; then trace neck, center front, and part of shoulder,
5) Draft the notch collar and revers, using the same method and directions as given for the notch collar of single breasted jacket. 6) Complete the front by tracing the revers,7) This diagram shows front and under collar separated. Dotted line indicates the rolling line.
8 ) For upper collar, trace under collar 1/8” wider, for front tracing, trace front, making facing 1” wide at shoulder and 4” wide at waistline and lower edge. Draw a waist dart in front 10” long 5” above and 5” below waistline, and 4” from side seam. Complete jacket draft by tracing the back foundation; then draw new center back lines and neck dart as for the single breasted jacket. Divide the back into two sections and reduce at waistline, as indicated in the diagram Lengthen jacket; then mark position for pockets.
9) This diagram shows the outline of the pattern pieces traced from the draft. Curve the seam lines of the back sections at the corners, near the armhole.
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