1) trace front and back of coat foundation; then shift side seam toward back, 1-1/2”. mark shoulder dart line; then continue center front line up as shown by dotted line. for shoulder dart, swing upper part of front to within 1/2″ of dotted line as shown in diagram 2. increase back shoulder dart from 1/4″ to 3/4″ as shown in diagram 2. 2) separate front and back at new side seam line and trace each about 5” apart; then draft coat 42”, length adding at lower center back for vent, and adding at center front for front closing,. draw rolling line revers.3) Reverse neck and center front line, and draft revers and notch collar as described for ‘Jacket with notch collar’, but make collar 3-1/2” wide at center back, and bring shoulder point, 1/2″ away from neck instead of 1/4″. Trace revers to complete front. 4) Make facing for front 1” wide at shoulder and 4” wide from revers to bottom. Make upper collar at least 1/8” wider than under collar. 5)  Mark position for pocket and flap. Add seam allowance in pattern sections, and a hem at bottom; then make corresponding notches. The insert in the draft contains cutting diagram, showing size 14 or 16 pattern lay on 54” nap material.DRAFT OF SLEEVE [2-PIECE] Trace coat sleeve foundation; then slash from bottom to elbow dart, and spread 1” at bottom as shown in diagram 7. 7) Divide sleeve in 2 parts; then draw slash line across cap 1-1/2” from top. 8 ) Slash from center to sides and spread 1” for broader shoulder effect. 9) Allow seams and make corresponding notches.