How to DRAFT the CARDIGAN JACKET
This style jacket is usually single breasted with a V-neck front. Some of the features of this style are as follows: Front shoulders tuck, 1-1/4” deep at armhole. Double waist dart in front below waistline. Shoulder dart in back Seam at center back with waist darts in back.
Seam at center back with waist darts in back, 10” long. 1) Use the jacket foundation to draft this pattern. Mark position for shoulder tuck slash line, from shoulder to bust and down to hip line as indicated. Mark sections A to C. 2) Slash from shoulder to bust and swing section A to within 1/2″ of dotted line. 3) To make the 1-1/4” deep shoulder tuck, slash from bust to hip line and spread section C, 2-1/2” at shoulder, as illustrated. Mark dots on tuck lines to indicate a 4” long tuck.
4) For single breasted closing, add 3/4″ [maximum 1″] to center front. Draft V-neck line, 5″ below high neckline. Lengthen jacket front 1-1/2″ at center front, and 1″ at side seam. Mark position for buttons and buttonholes, about 3-1/2″ apart at center front. Draft the waist darts, 8″ long [4″ below, and 4″ above the waistline, as indicated. Use the part of the darts below waistline only, as shown in diagram
5. Curve the side seam slightly below waistline. 5 and 6) Draft facing 1-1/2″ wide at shoulder and 3″ wide below bust. Add 1″ hem at bottom of front. Draft pocket 5″ deep and 5-1/2″ wide; then add 1″ hem at top of pocket.7) Reduce 1/2″ at center back waistline. To nothing at hip and bust line. Increase the 1/4″ shoulder dart in back to 3/4″, as shown in diagram 8. 8 ) Draft the back waist dart, 10” long. Lengthen back. 1” below hip line; then curve the center back and side seam line, slightly. 9) Add 1” hem at bottom of back. Draft the neck facing, 1-1/2” wide, 10) To complete the pattern, add seams and make corresponding notches.
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