draft of coat 1) using the coat foundation as a guide, trace front and back; then shift side seam toward back, 2” at top, and 2-1/2” at bottom. mark shoulder dart line; then continue center front line up a shown by dotted line. for shoulder dart, swing upper part of front to within 1/2″ of dotted line as shown in diagram 2. increase back shoulder dart from 1/4″ to 3/4″ as shown in diagram 2. make an oval shaped waist dart in front as indicated. continue center back line down, 42” length; then reduce 1/2″ at waistline, for side dart in front, first draw slash line from armhole at side, to hip line 3” from side; then slash and spread 1” and mark the v-shaped as shown in diagram 2. 2) separate front and back at new side seam line and spread section about 4” apart; then draft coat to bottom, reducing 3/4″ at each side seam of waistline, adding a 2” vent at lower center back and adding at center front for front closing, draw rolling line for revers.

3) For revers and notch collar, use same method of drafting as described for the box coat. 4) Make facing and upper collar Draw slash line for neck dart from breast point to neck, 1/2″ from rolling line; then slash and spread for neck dart by closing up shoulder dart as shown in diagram 5. Draw V-shaped dart 6” long. 5) Mark positions for patch pocket and pocket welt. Add seam allowance in pattern sections and a hem at bottom; then make corresponding notches. The insert in draft contains cutting diagram, showing this pattern in size 14 or 15 laid on 54” nap material.

draft of 2-piece shaped sleeve 6) draft coat sleeve as shown in draft of coat foundation, diagram 3; then shape sleeve below elbow line, 1-1/2” toward front 7) dotted lines show position for under sleeve seams. the extension at lower back edge is for the placket. 8 and 9) complete the upper sleeve section by tracing the front and back parts as indicated. 10) allow seams and make corresponding notches.