1) Using the dress foundation, trace front & back to waistline only; then extend the front dart up to the level of the side dart. Make waist dart 1/2″ wider [1/4” on each side of the dart], 4” above waistline Instead of the 1/4″ ease on back shoulder, make a dart, 1/2″ wide and 3” long at center shoulder seam; then add 1/4″ to shoulder seam beyond armhole as shown.
2) Draft outline of front as indicated; then shorten jacket 3) For 3/4 length sleeve, use the dress sleeve foundation as in
style 1, and shorten 5”; then divide in half and draw seam line, 1/4″ toward the front.

Reduce 1” at top of sleeve cap to nothing, 3” below, 4) – Kimono sleeve Trace front & back with shoulders 3” apart at neckline
and 1” apart at armhole; then place sleeve with top of cap overlapping 1” beyond armhole at shoulder, and having the sleeve balanced evenly on both sides at the underarms

Draft a facing for bottom of sleeve .
5) For gusset, draw diagonal slash lines, 3-1/2” long, from A to B on front, and 3-1/2” long, from C to D on back [the
angle of these lines run from the underarm corner[A to C] to neck at shoulder]. Draft a diamond shaped gusset, 4-1/2” wide, and having each line, 3-1/2” long, to correspond with the slash lines on front and back.
Draft facing for front and back, closing up the waistline darts as indicated.
To complete the pattern, add seams and make corresponding notches

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1 & 2) Using the dress front foundation, trace front to waistline only.

Lower the neckline as shown by dotted line; then pivoting at breast point, close up the side dart as shown in diagram 2.
Draw 2 parallel lines for the pleats, making the space between lines, 2-1/2” wide, and having the lines reach down to 1” below breast point as shown by dotted lines.
3 and 4) Instead of the single waist dart as shown in diagram 2, draw 2 smaller darts [below the pleat lines], equaling the single waist dart; then slash along the pleat lines and spread, closing up the waist darts as shown in diagram 4.
For sleeveless bodice, reduce 1/2″ at top of side seam and raise armhole /4” as indicated.
To complete the pattern, add seams.
5 and 6) Diagrams show the entire front, and how the pleats overlap at center front.