Drafting Dress with Midriff

HOW TO DRAFT THE PATTERN

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Using the hip-length dress foundation as shown in the supplementary revised edition of the sub-teens and teens, or the junior’s, misses and women’s sizes, draft pattern as follows:

1 and 2) – midriff

A sleeveless dress is usually closer fitting (about 2”) around bust, and the depth of the armhole is raised 3/4″ as shown by dotted lines.

Midriff – First draft lower edge of midriff half way between hip and waistline; then draft the upper edge of midriff as follows:

FRONT

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A to B – Equals 1/3 of A to C
D to E – Equals A to B, less 1”
B to E – Square across to point E BACK
F to G – Same as D to E on front H to I – Equals F to G, less 1/4″ G to I – Connect.

For closer fit midriff (just below the bust), make dart 1/2″ wider (1/4” on each side of the dart); then bring dart up to level of the side dart as shown by dotted

lines.

Separate the front and back sections as shown in diagram 3 and 4.

3 and 4) To eliminate the side dart, draw slash line from point of dart, down to midriff line; then slash and spread, closing the side dart as shown in diagram 4. This also provides the additional amount needed for the bust line gathers.

5 and 6) Lower the neckline in front and back, and extend front, 3/4″ beyond center front for button closing as shown by dotted lines.

7 and 8) Draft front facing as indicated; hen trace facing and front in one section.

SKIRT

Length of skirt – Equals the prevailing style length, measuring from natural waistline to hem of skirt.

Width of skirt – Equals about 4 times the circumference of the bottom of midriff.

To complete the pattern, add seams and a skirt hem; then make corresponding notches.

 

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