Illustration shows front and higher neckline in one, with pleats and waistline.

1) Using the dress front foundation to waistline only, as a guide, mark position for the first pleat from front dart to waistline.
Slash and close up front dart to spread for the first pleat as shown in diagram 2.
2) Mark position for the second pleat about 2” from first pleat. For higher neckline draw line from A to B, then square a line up 1” to C

3 & 4) C to D – 1/4″; then connect D to B.
A to E – 5”; then draw curved line from D to C to E Allow seams, and make notches at pleats.

Illustration shows back view of higher neckline with neck darts

5 and 6) Use dress back foundation as a guide.
For neck dart, first draw new center back line by adding 1/4″ at neck and reducing 1/2″ at waistline, as shown by dotted line.
Make neck dart 1/4″ wide and 3” long, 1-1/2” from center back.

7 & 8) For higher neckline, draft pattern as follows:
F to G – 1”. Continue center back line up. H to I – 1”. Be sure that the distance from I to G is 1/2″ less than the distance from H to F, minus the dart. Continue the dart above the neckline to a point.
Add seams on all edges but center back.

Illustration shows cowl neck about 5” deep at center front. The stitched pleats at shoulder hold the drapes in position.

1 &2) Using the dress front foundation as a guide, mark position for the pleats and V-neck as shown by dotted lines. Mark sections A, B and C.
Slash along pleat lines; then close up front dart and spread between A, B and C as shown in diagram 2. Mark positions for the drapes as shown by the dotted lines. Make pleat lines about 3” long

3 & 4 )Slash along drape lines from center front to shoulder and spread so that the lower points of sections A, B and C touch the squared outline.
For best results front with cowl neck should be cut on the bias of goods.