Jacket with Kimono sleeve [style 5] 1) using the dress foundation as in style 1, trace front & back to waistline only; then extend the front dart up to the level of the side dart. make waist dart 1/2″ wider [1/4” on each side of the dart], 4” above waistline instead of the 1/4″ ease on back shoulder, make a dart, 1/2″ wide and 3” long at center shoulder seam; then add 1/4″ to shoulder seam beyond armhole as shown. 2) draft outline of front as indicated; then shorten jacket3) For 3/4 length sleeve, use the dress sleeve foundation as in style 1, and shorten 5”; then divide in half and draw seam line, 1/4″ toward the front. Reduce 1” at top of sleeve cap to nothing, 3” below, 4)  – Kimono sleeve Trace front & back with shoulders 3” apart at neckline and 1” apart at armhole; then place sleeve with top of cap overlapping 1” beyond armhole at shoulder, and having the sleeve balanced evenly on both sides at the underarms. Draft a facing for bottom of sleeve. 5)For gusset, draw diagonal slash lines, 3-1/2” long, from A to B on front, and 3-1/2” long, from C to D on back [the angle of these lines run from the underarm corner[A to C] to neck at shoulder]. Draft a diamond shaped gusset, 4-1/2” wide, and having each line, 3-1/2” long, to correspond with the slash lines on front and back. Draft facing for front and back, closing up the waistline darts as indicated. To complete the pattern, add seams and make corresponding notches.