DRAFT OF JACKET (Style 3)

1) Using the hip-length dress foundation as in style 1, trace front and back to waistline only; then extend the front waist dart up to level of the side dart as indicated.
Lower neckline 1” at center front, and extend front 3/4″ beyond center front for front closing overlap; then shorten front and back 2” as indicated.
Instead of the 1/4″ ease on back shoulder seam, make a dart 1/2″ wide and 3” long at center of shoulder seam beyond armhole.
2) Draft front facing as shown; then trace facing and front in one section. To divide front and back into 4 sections, draw seam lines from armhole to top of the waist darts; then extend side dart to the dividing line as
shown by dotted lines.
Separate the 4 sections; then close up the side dart as shown in diagram 3.
3) Draw curved lines at the corners of the 4 sections as shown by dotted lines. To draft collar
see directions given on page 7 in supplementary section, part 2 – using steps form A to H, but make
the following changes:
A to B – 1” (see diagram 1)
B to C – 7” (for size 16)
C to D – 1-1/4”
B to H – 3”
4) For 3/4 length sleeve, use the dress sleeve foundation as in style 1, and shorten 5”; then divide in half and draw seam line 1/4″ toward the front. Reduce 1” at top of sleeve to nothing, 3” below; then apply the sleeve sections to front and back as follows: Overlap cap of sleeve 1” at top of armhole to nothing at lower part of armhole as shown by dotted lines.
To complete the pattern, add seams and make corresponding notches.

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DRAFT OF DRESS BODICE FRONT (Style 4)
Instead of the single waist dart as shown in diagram 2, draw 2 smaller darts (below the pleat lines), equaling the single waist dart.
Then slash along the pleat lines and pivot shoulder darts 1/4″ to neckline and the other 3-2/4” next to armhole closing waist darts, reduce 1/4″ in an C.F. add 1/2″ at sides and reduce 3/4″ at armhole following arrows.