The following diagrams show how to draft the kimono sleeve, using the dress front, back and sleeve foundation pattern as a guide.

1) Chart shows front and back traced with shoulders even at neckline, and 1” apart at armhole. [for shoulder pad allowance, make space between front and back at armhole 1-1/2” instead of 1”.

2) Place sleeve with top of cap overlapping 1/2″ beyond the front armhole at shoulder, and having points A and B at even distances from armhole and underarm seams of front and back; then trace sleeve A to C – 1-1/2” B to D – 1-1/2” C to D – Connect C to E – Half of C to D E to F – Connect for shoulder seam line. E to G – 2” C to G – Connect G to D – Connect3) Draw curved line from C to D, passing 1/2″ below point G. This becomes the seam line for the dropped shoulder style and divides the front and back from the sleeve. This seam is considered practical from the standpoint that the garment can be cut most economically in narrow width of material.

The seam thus cut becomes the style feature of garment and gives the appearance of a dropped shoulder.

Draw curved line at each side of the underarm seam above points C and D, Close up front dart, spreading dart at waistline for a pleat.

4) Shows completed kimono front, back and sleeve. Seams are to be allowed. Notches should be made at corresponding edges. The kimono sleeve lacks the tailored appearance of the raglan or set-in sleeve.

For best results, soft and thin materials should be used for the kimono sleeve design. If the material is wide enough, the sleeve may be made in one piece with the front and back. It is called a kimono sleeve style because the regular armhole is eliminated.

For short kimono sleeve style, use the front and back only as shown in diagram 4. Lower armhole edge may be finished with a narrow facing, band or cuff.

FOR DEEPER ARMHOLE AND WIDER SLEEVE

For deeper armhole, add 1-1/2” to each side of front and back For wider sleeve, add 1-1/2” on each side of sleeve at top, to nothing at bottom as line indicated.