Kimono Sleeve with Gusset Illustrations below

show 2-piece kimono sleeve with gusset under the arm. This style sleeve is most suitable in heavier material, such as velveteen, woolen material, etc. A kimono sleeve with a gusset allows the arm to rise more easily, and when the arm is dropped, the sleeve appears more tailored than the kimono sleeve without the gusset.1) Trace front and back foundation, placing pattern, shoulder to shoulder, and even at neckline. Mark points A and B. Place sleeve foundation with top of cap touching front armhole at point B; [sleeve must be balanced evenly on both sides at underarm seams] then trace sleeve.2) Divide width of sleeve in half from point B to lower edge, point C, as shown by dotted line. Draw diagonal slash lines for gusset, 3” long, from D to E, and from F to G. The angle of these lines can be located by placing ruler from D to A and F to A. For shoulder pleats in front draw lines as follows: A to H – 1-1/2”. H to I – 1”. J to K – 1”. H to J – Connect. I to K – Connect. 3) Separate front and back; then slash along shoulder pleat lines from H to J and I to K, and close up front dart, spreading at shoulder for pleats. Make pleat at H, 5” long, and 4-3/4” long at I. For gusset, draft diamond shaped section, making each line 3” long, to correspond with underarm slash be about 3” wide across center. The shaded part of gusset joins to front; the light part, to back. Seams are to be allowed on all sewing edges.