DRAFT OF DRESS FOUNDATION (Hip length)

1 and 3) Using the fitted bodice front and back, add the extra ease allowance needed around the bust and waistline for the dress or blouse; then broaden the shoulders, and deepen the armhole. Shorten back waist dart 1”.
2 – FRONT (Hip Length)
A to B – Equals waist to hip measure, less 1/2″ (see body measurement chart for Sub-Teen sizes).
B to C – Equals bustline D to E, plus 1/4″. Square at B.
C to F – Connect.
B to G – Equals H to I; then connect from J to G to K, to complete the waist dart.
4 – BACK (Hip Length)
L to M – Equals waist to hip measure (see measurement chart).
M to N – Equals bustline O to P, plus 1/4″. Square at M.
N to Q – Connect.
M to R – Equals line S to T; then connect from U to R to V, to complete the waist dart.

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DRAFT OF LONG TORSO DRESS

Featuring dropped shoulder and square neckline.
Skirt sweep equals at least 3 times the hip circumference of the bodice.
1 and 2 – Neckline
Lower the neckline, as shown making the square neck in front, 2-1/2” wide for size 12, with 1/8” grade for each size.
Dropped shoulder – Raise shoulder 1/2″ at armhole and drop armhole, 1-1/4” at side seam in front and back; then draft the 3” dropped shoulder outline Lower the hipline 1/4″ at center front, to nothing at side seam.
3 and 4 – Long Torso Lengthen bodice front and back by locating the seam line approximately half way between the hip
and waistlines. For example: if waist to hip length is 6”, draw the seam line 3” below waistline from center front to center back, 5 and 6 – Skirt.
Draft skirt the required length as follows: Make length from natural waistline to hem of skirt, twice the length of ‘Back Waist Length’ measurement. For example: if length from back of neck to waistline is 14-1/2”, the length from waistline to hem of
skirt is 29”. Draft width of skirt as follows: A to B – Equals at least 3 times the width of C to D for skirt front. E to F – Equals at least 3 times the width of G to H for skirt back. To complete the pattern, add seams and make corresponding notches