Foundation

The following diagrams show how to draft the raglan sleeve Foundation, using the dress foundation pattern as a guide.

1) Trace front and back to waistline dress foundation only, placing pattern pieces shoulder to shoulder being 1/4″ longer, should be reduced 1/4″ as shown by dotted line.

A to B – Equals 1/3 of front armhole A to C – Equals 1/2 of back armhole D – Mark point D at shoulder notch of sleeve cap.

2) E to B – Connect F – Center between E-B E to C – Connect G – Center between E-C H to J – Equals width of sleeve at neckline, making E to H twice the width of E to J as follows: E to H – 1”; then draw line from H to F E to J – 1/2″; then draw line from J to G Curve the line at points F and B in front; at points G and C in back in diagram 3.

3) Trace shoulder section from H to B to A to C to J to H; then cut out and apply to top of sleeve cap; overlapping point A, 1/2″ beyond point D, and having points B and C at even distances from sleeve as illustrated. Draw curved lines on sleeve from K to D and L to D.

4) Slash sleeve from K to D and L to D; then spread, having the sleeve cap touch the shoulder section at points B and C. This will lengthen the underarm seam of sleeve about 1-1/2”. For gathers at neck, slash front from neck, to dart; then close up front dart to allow for gathers at neck as shown in diagram 5.

5) Allow seams on all edges but center front and back. Make corresponding notches at armholes and sleeve. There should be at least 1/2″ ease allowance in the sleeve between the notches. The raglan sleeve has the same fitting value as the set-in sleeve, because the lower part of the sleeve and armhole are about the same in construction. It is called a raglan sleeve because the shoulder section and sleeve are in one part with the armhole seams running towards the neck, in front and back.