Drafting Raglan Sleeves

raglan sleeves-1

STYLE 1

1) Use the raglan sleeve foundation pattern as a guide. For gathers at shoulder, draw a slash line on front, from shoulder to dart; then mark sections A and B. Slash; then close up front dart and spread for gathers as shown in diagram 2.

For shoulder dart in sleeve, draw a line through center of sleeve from top down, the length of shoulder; then draw lines to sides of sleeve cap, as illustrated. Mark sections C-D-E. To make shoulder pad pattern, etc., see diagrams to the right.

For neck dart in back first draw new center back line by adding 1/4″ at neck, and reducing 1/2″ at waistline as shown by dotted line; then make neck dart 1/4″ wide, and 3” long, 1-1/2” from center back, as shown in diagram 2.

2) For shoulder dart, slash from top of sleeve down and across; then spread about 3” or 4” at top. The spread above E will allow the shoulder to extend slightly.

3) Allow seams and make corresponding in front and sleeve to indicate the position for gathers in front. The raglan sleeve with shoulder dart, gives the garment a more tailored appearance and better fit over the arm at shoulder.raglan sleeves-2 STYLE 2

Illustration shows raglan sleeve and yoke in one section.

1) Use the raglan front, back and sleeve foundation pattern as a guide. Draft the yoke on front and back as follows:raglan sleeves-3 A to B – Equals 2/3 of front armhole C to D – on sleeve equals A to B on front E to F – Equals 2/3 of back armhole G to H – on sleeve equals E to F on back Draw yoke lines on front and back

2) Cut away yoke sections from front and back, and apply to sleeve at corresponding positions. For gathers in front, draw slash line as illustrated; then slash and spread as shown in diagram 3.

3) Allow seams and make corresponding notches. Mark grain line arrow in yoke and sleeve parallel to center back. Draft cuff 1-1/2” wide at lower edge of sleeve.raglan sleeves-4

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