Stitching the full amount of dart control into any garment results in a fitted garment with a standard amount of ease. In periods when a more relaxed look is fashionable, some of the divided dart control may appear as unstitched fullness. For instance: In a bodice with dart control divided between waistline and underarm, the underarm dart is stitched for fit while the waistline dart is left unstitched for fullness (Fig. 45a). In Fig. 45b, the dart control is divided between a stitched dart originating at the armhole and unstitched dart control at the waistline giving it some fullness. The utilization of divided dart control-some stitched and some unstitched-is the basis of semi-fitted styles such as the shift or skimmer dress.

Sewing the patterns FIG. 45a 1. Divide the dart control between waistline and underarm (Fig. 46a). (The waistline dart control is handled as for gathers.) 2. Trace the pattern allowing the underarm dart to remain as a dart. Draw a line across the waistline as for a seam (Fig. 46b). 3. Complete the pattern.

FIG. 45b 1. Divide the dart control between waistline and armhole (Fig. 46c). (The waistline dart control is handled as in Fig. 46a). 2. Trace the pattern allowing the armhole dart to remain as a dart. Draw a line across the waistline as for a seam (Fig. 46d). 3. Complete the pattern. {Credit} Design Your Own Dress Patterns Adele P. Margolis