HOW TO SHIFT THE DART CONTROL FOR GATHERS,

SHIRRING, OR SMOCKING

Waistline Fullness (Fig. 24) 1.On the cut-out bodice-front sloper with the cut-out dart, locate the outside limits of the waistline fullness. Mark the points A and B (Fig. 24a). 2 Draw slash lines from A and B to the dart point. Draw several additional slash lines on either side of the waistline dart starting at the waistline and ending at the dart point (Fig. 24a). 3.Slash all slash lines. 4.Spread all sections so the spaces between are equal (Fig. 24b). 5. Trace the new pattern. Draw the new waistline with a smooth, curved freehand line, correcting any irregularities (Fig. 24c). 6. On the new pattern make a notation that the area from A to B (indicated by the symbols a 0) is to be gathered to fit the waistline measurement (Fig. 24c).

Neckline Fullness 1. On the cut-out bodice-front sloper with the cut-out dart, locate the outside limits of the neckline fullness. Mark points A and B on the neckline (Fig. 25a). 2. Draw slash lines from A and B to the dart point. Draw several additional slash lines between A and B (Fig. 25a). 3.Slash all slash lines. 4. Shift all or part of the waistline control to the neckline. Spread the sections so the spaces between are equal (Fig. 25b). 5Trace the new pattern. Draw the new neckline with a smooth, curved freehand line, correcting any irregularities. Indicate the area to be gathered (Fig. 25c). This multiple-slash line method not only produces the spread necessary for the gathers, it also provides a guide for the new seam line (the waistline in Fig. 24, the neckline in Fig. 25). Were you simply to shift the dart control to the new position by a single slash. line as in the first of our exercises, you would have an opening for a dart but no way •of knowing where the new seam line should be. A freehand curved line would only be guessing. Actually the more lines slashed and the more sections spread, the more accurate the guideline. Since we are working with such a small sloper the few slash lines we have used will do. However, on a full-scale sloper, one would have to use many more.