Darts, Tucks and Grading style 1 – front with side darts this style features side and waist darts which give it a smoother fit over the bust. using the bodice front foundation, make a side dart in pattern as follows: 1) slash along side dart line (o to q); then spread and make the waist dart 2” wide at waistline as shown in diagram 2. 2 and 3) draw v-shaped lines 4-1/2” long for side dart, and 5-1/2” long for waist dart (for size 16-1/2).style 2 – with side dart and waist tucks the tucks at waistline give the front a little extra fullness below the bust, and also a softer effect than with dart fitting. 1 and 2) trace outline of front (style 1); then trace the lines for the side ad waist darts. to replace the waist dart, make 2 tucks, 2” high, and drawing the 4 lines 1” apart. for size 16-1/2, make the first tuck 2-1/2” from center front. 3) completed front pattern with waist tucks.style 3 – with shoulder tuck at armhole especially suitable for the half size figure. 1 and 2) using the waist front pattern of style 2, draw slash line from shoulder (as near as possible to armhole) to a point 1″ away from the side dart. mark sections a and b; then slash and straighten side seam line. 3) mark the sewing lines for the shoulder tuck, 3″ long as shown.style 4 – back with waist tucks 1) trace outline of back bodice foundation; then trace the lines for shoulder and waist darts. 2 and 3) to replace the waist dart, make 2 tucks, 2” high, and draw the 4 lines 1” apart. for size 16-1/2, make the first tuck, 2-1/2” away from center back.grading half sizes diagrams below show where and how much to grade front, back and sleeve per size. chart below shows the grade of the bodice and sleeve in 5 sizes, 14 ½ , 16 ½, 18 ½, 20 ½, 22 ½.