How to Draft the Straight Skirt
Draft of Front
1 ) A to B – Equals center front length.
A to C – 6-1/2” from waist to hip.
C to D – Equals 1/4 of hip measure plus 1/2”
for ease.
B to E – Equals hipline C-D. Square across at B. E to F – Equals center front line A-B plus 1/4”. Draw a line up from E to F, through D.
F to A – Connect by drawing slightly curved line. B to G – Equals 1/4 of sweep measurement; then
Connect from G to D.
A to H – Equals 1/4 of waist measure plus 1/2” for ease.
H to J – 1/2”; then draw slightly curved line from A to J.
J to D – Connect [1/2” dart may be made in front, in place of the ease]
2
B to K – Equals 1/2 of line B-G: then square a
line from side seam to point K.
To complete the front, draw a curved line at bottom, and above point D.
Draw curved hipline parallel to lower curved line.
DRAFT OF THE BACK
3
A to B – Equals center back length
A to C – 7” from waist to hip.
C to D – Equals 1/4 of hip measure plus 1/2″ for ease.
B to E – Equals center back line, less 1/4”.
E to F – Equals 1/4 of sweep; then connect from G to D.
C to H – 4”, with 1/8” grade for each size. AtoJ–EqualsCtoH;thenconnectJtoHand make
A V-shaped dart, 1” wide at point J.
A to K – Equals 1/4 of waist measure plus 1” for dart.
K to L – 1/2″; then draw slightly curved line, from LtoA.
L to D – Connect.
B to M – Equals 1/2 of line B-G: then use same method to complete the back as described for the front.
For waistband, make a double band 1-1/2” wide finished and the length of waist measure plus 3/4” extension for left side opening.
To complete pattern, allow for seams and hem.
4 PIECE SKIRTS WITH PLEATED INSETS Style features inverted pleats at lower part of center front and back which add to the sweep at lower edge
DRAFT OF THE FRONT
1) Trace outline of front foundation then add about 2” pleat at lower part of center front, make 1⁄2 dart 4” long at the center front of waistline
2 For the inset, draft a corresponding section to fit the width and length of pleat.
Draft of back
Trace outline of back foundation, then make the pleat and inset the same width and length as the front that should add 16” to the lower edge of the skirt. Add seams and hem..
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