Yoke and Sleeve in One

Illustrated shows shoulder extended about 1” beyond the regular armhole. The pad holds shoulder of yoke in position. The sleeve is in two parts with seam through center.1)

Trace the dress foundation of the front, back and sleeve; then draw the yoke seam lines on front and back, and mark sections A to D.

2)Draw a line through center of sleeve and mark sections E and F. Mark dots on cap of sleeve, 2-1/2” each side of the center lineCut through center of sleeve; then cut away yoke sections and place at corresponding position on sleeve cap, leaving 1” space between yoke and sleeve [for the extended shoulder] as shown in diagram 3. For shoulder tucks, draw 3 lines, 1” apart.

3) Slash along tuck lines and spread, closing up front dart, and thus making straight center front line. Make pleat in back at waistline, 2” high along the dart lines.

4) Diagram shows completed pattern for waist and sleeve.5) To make shoulder pad pattern, place yoke sections, shoulder to shoulder, and even at neckline; then draw outline of pad, 1-1/2″ from neckline to corners of armhole. Illustration at right shows pad being tacked to correct position on inside of garment.