From the Shoulder

Since there are already two darts on the back bodice, there is no need to divide the waistline control. If there is a control seam on the front bodice, it is a fine point in design to make the back control

seam match. Move the back shoulder dart as necessary.

1. On the cut-out bodice-back sloper with the cut-out dart, connect the shoulder dart with the waistline dart. Place notch marks at the points of the darts. Establish the grain line in the side-back

section parallel to the center back (Fig. 62a).

2. Separate the two sections. Correct the angular style lines with gentle, opposing curves (Fig. 62b).

3. Complete the pattern.

For figures with high or prominent shoulder blades, extend the back waistline dart before Step 1.

From the Armhole

1. Trace the bodice-back sloper. Cut out the tracing and the dart.

Draw the style line from the armhole to the waistline dart point.

Notch the style line above the dart point. Notch the dart legs opposite each other (Fig. 63a).

2. Slash the style line. Divide the dart control between waistline and armhole. Establish the grain in the side-back section parallel to the center back (Fig. 63b).

3. separate the pattern. Trace each section, correcting the angularity of the seam lines (Fig. 63c).

4. Complete the pattern.

 

 

 

THE CONTROL SEAM MOVED OFF THE DART POINT

For design purposes one may take a few liberties with the position of the style line off the dart point. However, when this is done some auxiliary or compensatory shaping must be provided.

Toward the Center Front

1. On the cut-out bodice-front sloper with the cut-out dart, draw the style line off the dart point toward the center front-no more than 1 inch (Fig. 64a).

2. Since no shifting of dart control is possible unless the new line .is connected. with the dart point, draw the connecting line at right angles to the center front. Place notch marks on the style line above

and below the connecting line (Fig. 64a).

3. Slash all slash lines.

4. Close all (Fig. 64b) or part (Fig. 64c) of the waistline dart, shifting some or all of the control to the style line and the connecting line. Establish the grain in, the side-front bodice parallel to the center front.

5. Separate the sections. Correct any angularity. Complete the pattern.

In Fig. 64b, the dart control shifted to the connecting line is eased into the center-front section between the notches (Fig. 64d).

In Fig. 64c, a small amount of dart control on the connecting line dart is eased into the style line between the notches. The remaining waistline control is used as a dart (Fig. 64e).

As you can see, in both cases some control is retained in the side-front section to assist with the shaping that has been moved off the high point.

Toward the Side Seam

1. On the cut-out bodice-front sloper with the cut-out dart, draw the style line 2 inches or more off the dart point toward the side seam. Connect the style line with the dart point. Place notch marks

on the style line as indicated (Fig. 65a).

2. Cut the sections apart. Slash the connecting line. Close the waistline dart, shifting the dart control to the style line, where it is divided between waistline and armhole, and to the connecting line,

where it becomes a new dart (Fig. 65b).

3. Establish the grain in the side-front section parallel to the center front (Fig. 65b). Complete the pattern.

{Credit} Design Your Own Dress Patterns

Adele P. Margolis