STYLE 1

 

Illustration shows shoulder extended about 1-1/4” beyond the regular armhole.

1) Use the dress foundation of the front, back and sleeve as a guide. Cut off part of sleeve cap and apply to armhole at front and back for extended shoulder, as follows: First draw a line through center of sleeve; then mark a dot 1-1/4” from top along the center line, and mark dots on cap of sleeve, 3” each side of the shoulder point.

Mark sections A and B; then mark dots along armhole of front and back 3” from shoulder seam.Apply sections A and B to corresponding position at armhole as follows: Divide sections A and B into 3 equal parts; then make slashes from lower edge up and apply to armhole, spreading sections slightly as illustrated. The sleeve cap now requires the 1-1/4” build up as follows: Divide each side of cap in half and mark dots; then draw line between dots.

Draw the diagonal lines as illustrated and mark sections C to H. Slash through center, from top down; then across into the cap, and spread as shown in diagram

3, bringing sections C and F up 1-1/4” [or 5/8” in two places] to equal the amount cut away at top of cap. For armhole slash gathers, draw slash lines, and mark sections I to K; then slash and spread as shown in diagram 3, closing up front dart and reducing 1/2″ at waistline. For back, draw new center back line by reducing 1/2” at waistline near side seam, and mark sections L and M. 3 and 4) Diagrams show waistline reduced and allowance made for gathers at armhole.

HOW TO MAKE SHOULDER PAD PATTERN

A – Trace front and back, placing pattern shoulder to shoulder and even at armhole. Draw outline of pad, 1-1/2” from neckline to the corners of armhole as illustrated.

B – Shows completed shoulder pad pattern.

C – Shows pad being tacked to correct position on inside of garmentStyle 2 Sketch shows garment same as in style 1, but with sleeves gathered at top, and extended about 3/4″ beyond the shoulder.

1 and 2) Use sleeve of style 1; then divide upper line into 4 equal parts.

Draw slash lines and mark sections A to E. 3 and 4) Slash on dotted lines and spread, raising sections above E, 3/4″ for the required sleeve extension beyond the shoulder.