2 STYLES [Sub-teens & Teens]

DRAFT OF SLEEVE PATTERN [STYLE

1] Sketch at extreme left, illustrates the 2-piece topper set-in sleeve with a 4” wide turn-up cuff. Sleeve is 3/4 length.

In order to draft; the deep armhole sleeve as shown in diagrams 5 to 7, first draft the plain set-in coat sleeve as shown in diagrams 1 to 4 as follows;

1 – A to B – Equals Over arm Length measurement. A to C – Equals Arm Circumference measurement, plus 4”. B to D – Same as A to C; then connect C to D. B to E – Equals Underarm length measurement. D to F – Same as B to E; then connect E to F. G to H – Center line between line A-C and line B-D.

2 and 3 – Sleeve cap E to I – Equals 1/3 of E to J. G to K – Equals 1/3 of G to A; then connect K to I. K to L – Equals half of K to I. F to M – Equals 1/4 of F to J. G to N – Equals 1/3 of G to C; then connect N to M. N to O – Equals half of N to M. G to E – Draw curved line from G to E, through L, for front of sleeve cap as indicated. G to F – Draw curved line from G to F, through C, for back of sleeve cap.

4 Draft Sleeve facing, 5-1/2” wide, for a 4” wide turn-up cuff. Divide sleeve in 2 parts from G to H; then draw line across, 3” below top of cap. Slash and spread 1/2″ as shown in diagram 5. This provides the extra room for the shoulder pad.

5 – For the deeper armhole Lower the sleeve cap 3” and extend 1” at the sides of each sleeve section.

6 and 7) The deep armhole sleeve must be so constructed, that it will allow the wearer to raise the arm more comfortably. Thus for a 3” deeper armhole, the underarm length of the sleeve must be lengthen 3” at top, as shown in diagram 6 and 7, as follows: Divide top of sleeve cap of each sleeve section into 3 equal parts; then draw curved slash lines, 2” deep, and divide each in half. Mark the sections A to D. slash as illustrated and spread, raising sections A and D, 3”; then draw seam lines slightly curved.

DRAFT OF RAGLAN SLEEVE

[Style 2]

1) Using the topper pattern of style 1 [before seams have been added], draft the raglan armhole on front and back by drawing slightly curved lines. Mark sections A and B. Cut away the shoulder sections [A and B] and apply them to the corresponding positions on top of the sleeve sections.

2) To complete the pattern, add seams and a hem at lower edge.