How to Draft a Pinafore

How to Draft a PinaforeDress consists of bodice with ruffle, waistline and dirndl skirt.
Dress has a back closing, and may be worn with or without sleeves.
For sleeveless dress, make bodice fit closer around the bust as shown in style 2 below, (diagram 1).

1) Using the dress foundation (hip length), divide front and back as shown by dotted lines; then draft waistband, 1-1/2” wide, and mark sections A to K.

2) Separate the bodice, waistband and hip sections, and eliminate the darts on the waistbands. Draft the square neck in front and back as shown by dotted lines.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Draft the ruffle in front and back, 3-1/2” wide at top and 1-1/2” wide at bottom; then lengthen ruffle for gathers, making pattern half times greater in length than the original length. For skirt, continue center front line down below hip, 20”, and square line across at bottom, at least twice the size of the front waistband; then

complete the front of skirt as shown by dotted lines. Repeat same process for back of skirt. For back closing overlap, add 3/4" to center back on the 3 sections; then mark position for buttonholes. Draft pocket, 7” x 7” for skirt front. Add seams and hems as illustrated; then make corresponding notches.

pinefore-draft

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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STYLE 2

The skirt and waistband is same as for style 1 above.
To draft the bodice, use the upper part of the dress foundation as a guide.

pinefore-draft-2

1) Reduce width of front and back at bust line to nothing at lower edge. For armhole dart, draw line from armhole dart, draw line from armhole to breast point. Mark sections A and B; then slash and spread by closing up front dart as shown in diagram 2.

2) Draft new necklines in front and back as shown by dotted lines; then for back closing overlap, add 3/4" to center back.

3) Draft shoulder strap in front and back as shown by dotted

lines.
4) Shoulder strap may be made into one pattern by joining at shoulder line. Add hem in back; then allow seams and make corresponding notches.

 

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