Do you recall the exercises that utilized the bulging block as a method of eliminating the waistline dart so that we had an uninterrupted area in which to design? Here is another device that serves the same purpose. Using the flat pattern shift the dart control out of the way. Do your designing. Shift it back again to the newly designed control. It’s like moving furniture out of the way temporarily so you can clean under the rug.

1. Trace the bodice-front sloper. Cut out the tracing and the dart. Shift the waistline dart control to the shoulder. Fasten with Scotch tape.

2. Locate the number and length of the new waistline darts. If you make them somewhat shorter than the sloper dart you will be shortening the darts at the same time you are dividing the control.

Draw the dart lines and connect them with the dart point (Fig. 53a).

3. Slash all slash lines.

4. Close the shoulder dart, returning the control to the waistline.

Fasten with Scotch tape.

S. Divide the dart control into equal darts with equal spaces

between them (Fig. 53b). Trace the pattern.

6. Locate the new dart points in the center of each space at the

designated height. Draw new dart legs. Make sure that each pair is

equal in length.

7. Fold the darts in position. Correct the waistline and trace it

(Fig. 53c).

8. Complete the pattern.

 

{Credit} Design Your Own Dress Patterns
Adele P. Margolis