If you have to stitch two or more sections of a garment together to form a complete front or back unit, why not make decorative use of the parts and the seaming that joins them?

Use every trick in the bag: color (Fig. 78a), texture (78b), grain(Fig.78c), topstitching (Fig. 78d), decorative applications (Fig. 78e), insertions of lace or edgings (Fig. 78f), pipings or

bandings to apply over the seam or insert in the seam (Fig. 78g), insertions of belts, bands, pockets, welts (Fig. 78h). In fact, use anything your unleashed fancy and ingenuity can devise. The sky’s

me limit!

REPEAT PERFORMANCE- SIMILAR SEAMS

In design a degree of repetition makes harmony. * The eye is pleased to see a line it has met before.

In Fig. 79, each of the designs features a pair or trio of similar seam lines. One of the seams is a control seam. The other has been added for emphasis. Can you tell which carries a dart control? Yes, it is the one that comes closest to the bust point.

In Fig. 79a, the dart control appears in the lower seam. The width and shape of the band are in no way altered. The upper seam is purely decorative.

On the bodice- front sloper, draw the style lines of the band 9 (see page 110). Make them parallel. Notch both styles lines. Cut the section apart. Shift all or part of the waistline dart control to the lower seam.

 

The shape of the inset band is interesting by itself. Topstitching would give more importance to its line. The dress would be very effective if the three sections were in gradations of the same color (a warm beige, apricot, and orange) or in contrast colors (red, white and blue)

In Fig 79b, the inset band developed in the same way. Despite the straight appearance of the lines, they are slightly curved to conform to the shape of the body.

In Fig 79c, it is upper seam that is the control seam. This pattern is easier to plan on the bulging block than on the flat sloper.

Close the waistline dart. Sketch the band so the upper line touches the dart point. Mark notches. Cut the band away from the rest of the bodice. A tiny bit of the closed dart control remains forever

(ignored) in the band.

In Fig. 79d, the horizontal center seam of the jacket carries part of the dart control. The rest remains as un-stitched control at the waistline for the boxy design. The top and bottom seam lines merely

repeat the line of the control seam for design interest.

The forgoing discussion of control seams has with the bodice front. the principles illustrated work as well in a bodice back, in a skirt, and in a sleeve.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

{Credit} Design Your Own Dress Patterns -Adele P. Margolis